Red_wood - Eau de Parfum
Norlimbanol is one of the most powerful woody notes in all of perfumery, with its hypnotic smell of absolute dryness. Perfume critic Chandler Burr describes it as “a genius molecule that should be worth its weight in gold” and compares it to a multi-sensory amusement park ride. Discovered by Firmenich’s chemists and patented in 1986, this “vintage” captive joined the exclusive group of “Green Chemistry” molecules readily biodegradable. Its dry woody and ambery hues are a must in modern perfumery.
THE SCENT: Monumental Wood
It takes a monumental molecule to recreate the scent of the gigantic redwoods. Frank Voelkl’s choice became the core of this colossal composition. Norlimbanol runs thru every fiber in our conceptual tree. First, it is absorbed by its roots along with tactile suede, earthy patchouli, and animalistic musky notes. Then, victoriously ascends through its trunk, carried by sweet stems of cyclamen, suave rose petals, and volatile pimento berries. As it reaches the canopy, chlorophyll-saturated juniper, balsamic eucalyptus, bright bergamot, and celestial star anise propel the glorious ascension, releasing a gigantic silage worth of its name, red_wood.
Norlimbanol®, rose, pimento berries, cyclamen, suede, juniper, cedarwood
- Created: 2021
- Perfumer: Frank Voelkl
You may not know their names, but you’ve smelled them. In fact, you probably smell of them right now. Without them, your fragrance simply wouldn’t exist.
While natural essences bask in the limelight, synthetics are the clandestine infiltrators that spark off fragrant revolutions. It was the discovery of coumarin that yielded the first modern perfume, Fougère Royale, in 1881. Aldehydes lent their abstract sheen to Chanel N°5. Ethyl-vanillin enhanced Shalimar’s plush cleavage. Hedione® breathed its radiance into Eau Sauvage. And no contemporary scent could do without synthetic musk or the ubiquitous Iso E Super.
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Nomenclature celebrates design in perfume chemistry by showcasing today’s most inspiring, exclusive molecules—so exclusive that some, known as “captives,” are zealously guarded by fragrance companies.
Through a series of sheer and streamlined compositions, Nomenclature explores their complex facets and their potential for protagonism. Demonstrating that these man-made hybrids of poetry and science have a beauty all their own. The beauty of modernity.